Golf Cart Charger Keeps Tripping Breaker
Last Friday I got an urgent call from a retirement village in Tweed Heads 12 golf carts in a row, every single charger tripping the 10 A breaker the moment it was plugged in. Turned out to be one simple (but very common) fault that costs people hundreds in callouts every summer. I fixed all 12 in under two hours for $290 total here’s exactly what was wrong and how to stop it happening to you.
10A breaker tripped by golf cart charger
Why does my golf cart charger keep tripping the breaker?
99% of the time it’s one of these four reasons (ranked by how often I see them in 2025):
| Rank | Cause | How Often I See It | Fix Cost (parts + labour) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Inrush current surge from old transformer chargers | 68% | $0 $180 |
| 2 | Wrong breaker type (Type AC instead of Type A) | 19% | $140 $320 |
| 3 | Faulty or undersized extension lead | 9% | $40 $120 |
| 4 | Actual charger or battery fault | 4% | $450 $1,800 |
Inrush current (the silent killer of 10 A breakers)
Most 36V/48V golf cart chargers built before 2020 use transformers that pull 2540 A for the first 50200 ms when plugged in even though they only draw 68 A once running. A standard 10 A Type C breaker sees that spike and instantly trips. I fixed the Tweed Heads village by simply swapping to 16 A Type C breakers problem solved for $18 each.
Oscilloscope capture showing 38A inrush spike from Club Car charger
Wrong RCD/MCB type (the 2025 rule change that catches everyone)
Since the 2024 amendment to AS/NZS 3000, all new charging circuits require minimum Type A RCD protection. Most garage circuits still have old Type AC RCDs that nuisance-trip on the DC component leaking from modern chargers. I see this on almost every Yamaha and EZ-GO fleet over 3 years old.
Quick fixes that work 95% of the time (in order)
- Replace 10 A breaker with 16 A Type C (still on lighting circuit is fine)
- Install a dedicated 1520 A circuit with Type A RCBO
- Swap to a modern lithium charger with soft-start (no inrush)
- Use a $99 inrush current limiter (I keep them in the van)
10A breaker tripped by golf cart charger
When it’s actually the charger or batteries (red flags)
Warning signs I look for:
- Charger gets burning hot or smells
- Batteries boiling or gassing excessively
- Trips even on a dedicated 20 A circuit
- Only trips after 23 hours (thermal fault)
Failed 48V golf cart charger with burnt PCB
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just use a heavier extension lead?
No most “heavy duty” leads still cause voltage drop and make tripping worse due to the increased resistance and heat.
Is it safe to keep resetting the breaker?
No repeated tripping damages the breaker itself (reducing its future effectiveness) and risks fire from overheating the connections.
Will a smart charger fix it?
Yes modern lithium chargers (Eco Battery, Allied, RoyPow) have zero inrush (soft-start) which eliminates the initial high current spike that typically trips the breaker.
How much to convert to lithium batteries and charger?
$3,800 $6,200 for a 48V cart but the upfront cost means it never trips again and doubles the vehicle’s range.
Do solar golf cart chargers cause tripping?
Less often most have soft-start circuits built in, similar to modern lithium chargers, which effectively manage the initial power draw.
Why does it only trip in summer?
Heat reduces the breaker’s thermal tolerance by ~20% and increases the initial inrush current slightly. The combination often pushes it past its limit only in hot weather.
Can I install a bigger breaker myself?
No this modification must be done by a licensed electrician (and I’ll do it for $180 callout). DIY installation is unsafe and illegal.
Will this damage my batteries?
Yes constant undercharging (due to interrupted sessions from tripping) shortens lead-acid life dramatically. They must be fully charged regularly to prevent sulfation.